At Simone Rocha’s fall 2022 runway presentation in London, the collection’s uncharacteristically pared-down garments inspired makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver to use the Irish fashion designer’s signature pearl and gemstone embellishments as makeup. Similar adornments were spotted this season at Burberry, where makeup artist Pat McGrath spelled out the brand’s name on models’ faces with prismatic crystal gems. At Givenchy, body piercing-like orbs added to the collection’s heavy-metal aesthetic.
While a dramatic runway beauty look can generate instant online buzz for a new collection, such theatrical makeup shouldn’t be discounted as simple click bait. In fact, it illustrates the growing ethos of cosmetics as personal expression that has upended old school notions of a beauty trend cycle dictated by big brands. As de Kluyver told British Vogue at the Simone Rocha show, “I always love the idea that makeup is worn as a fashion accessory and is just an extension of your personality and identity.” Instead of inviting the question, “why would anyone stick jewels on their face,” this anything-goes attitude asks, “why wouldn’t you?”
As a visual communication tool, beauty has the power to amplify a designer’s vision for a collection and this season’s elaborate application of gemstones is no exception. “Any time makeup is used to create art, fantasy and a step out of the everyday, it enhances the experience of fashion as art and can help elevate a look,” Toronto-based makeup artist and hairstylist Sabrina Rinaldi says. These singular looks can boast cultural longevity and are often referenced by creatives for decades.
